Warning: Scuse me in advance for my bad english regarding the technical words. So, any suggestion is welcome...
All photos from Pat, who races his triple in the European P2 unlimited class championship.

This first part concerns the LAVERDA 1000 and 1200 tuning.

A special page for the 750 twins will follow.

Thanks to Patrick and Doug for their help.

120 or 180°?:
Same work will allow almost the same results on both 1000 and 1200cc engines. However the 120° engines are easier to tune-up thanks
to their better smoothness, even if the 180° will give all its bad character and its special roaring which allow so stronger sensations...

1000 or 1200?:
It is evident that a 1200cc engine can allow a great power with an easier way than the 1000. But some pilots racing their bikes in classic championships prefer the 1000cc because they think that this engine revs better and is more homogeneous.
So, the opinions are divided,
they depend often of the tracks used.

What power can be expected?
100 hp to the rear wheel (115/120 engine power) is a good average, regarding torque, reliability and reasonnable budget.

Consequently, to get a power really better than 100 hp to the wheel is an extremely hard and rigorous job, asking for hi-technology systems (ceramic coating for instance) or for very expensive and radical mods (monoblock cranks, ...)

So, we will aim in this page a basis of 100hp to the wheel, which can be possibly improved thanks to more radical solutions.
Engine head:
- Valves: 35 to 35,5 mm for the exhaust valves, 39,5 to 41mm for the inlet valves are required.
To get 1000 SFC (35/40,5) or Jota (35/39,5) valves can reduce the cost.
Valve set width must be narrow, about 0.5mm inlet and 1mm exhaust, which says that reshimming operations will occur frequently.
Special bronze valve guides are better, they must be slimmed down in the ports. Ports profiles must be modified and polished.
Valve springs can broke, especially with the 7C cams at very high revs, involving damages to the cams and buckets. With the 7C, it is
necessary to drill the head where thesprings are located in order to not crush them. Some engineers put twin springs, it is then necessary to
modify the valves cups and the guides. This mod is effective.
- Camshafts: The available camshafts for the Laverda triples can be improved, a lot of work is still to do on them (they have been conceived 30 years ago!). Doug Home in Australia is working for new cam designs, his work should allow good results soon.

Waiting for that, the cams available are the factory 4C and 7C cams, or the Axtell coming from the US.

Some engineers are triying to find more answers, like mixing 4C/7C, modifying the cam lobs or the timing with adjustable sprockets or at least different valve gaps.
For the 4C, which allow a better power at high rev without loosing the mid range torque, it seems that the good timing is obtained with closer gaps than preconized: 0.15 IN and 0.20 EX.
For the 7C, used on the fastest and straight tracks (good power at high revs but they kill the mid range) the gaps can be set at about 0.20 IN and 0.25 EX. As mentioned above, the 7C can broke the valve springs at very high revs and sometimes the pistons.

The Axtell cams are a good improvement for power and torque face to the factory cams, but the power drops off quickly over 7800 rpm. The Doug' work actually done in Australia should allow great results on all the power range, we are all waiting...
At least, the cams sprockets can be lightened by drilling them.

- Cam buckets: The small holes allowing to drain off the air when the buckets are lifted down by the cams must be slightly enlarged on the top of the bucket, in order that the oil film cannot be broken at high revs. A good improvement can be found by drilling 1mm from the top edge of the buckets liners, allowing oil to stay at this point.
- Twin spark system: Some engineers propose to modify the cylinder head to fit 2 spark plugs per cylinder, matching with a twin spark
ignition system. This allows a better combustion but also it is then possible to retarding the ignition advance and avoid the overheating.
A special ignition is required (see below).

Cylinder block, pistons:
- Concerning the cubic capacity, there is a choice to do beetween the original 1000 Jota parts (75mm pistons), the 1200 Mirage ones
(80mm pistons), and other bigger pistons which can help to increase the cc. However, the biggest recommended size is 81mm in order to keep
the required liner thickness. If the 81mm size is chosen, it is necessary to adapt new liners (the Citroën BX liners can be adapted to the
Laverda block) and to fit new forged 81 mm HC pistons (Accralite and J/E), with possibly mods to match with the big valves. The Accralite ref. 1124804 don't need this mod though.
In case of such a modified cubic capacity, it is naturarly necessary to adapt the upper crankcase.

- The original preconized liner/pistons clearance is too tight for a racing purpose, a clearance of 0.11mm is required (original average is 0.08mm)

- One of the main problem in racing condition is the pistons overheating. To limit the piston temperature, it is possible to slightly retard
(which matches also with free-flox exhausts) the ignition advance if the system is good (bad results with original Bosch ignition), or fit a twin
spark ignition system. But one of the best way to control the pistons temp is to fit at the rear of the cylinder block 3 oil jets, jetting oil on
pistons sides. The position of these jets must be precise in order to avoid blow-by phenomenal. The oil pressure must be
sufficient (see below).

- Compression ratio: To adjust it, some engineers rectify the cylinder block base (-1mm) or even remove the cylinder block base gasket
instead of working on the cylinder head
The crankshaft:
We are speaking here about a tuning on an original Laverda engine basis, so we keep the assembled crankshaft basis.

These original cranks are very solid, tuning them is often limited to a careful balancing, to the alternator and starter freewheel removing and then to cut the conical end of the RHS of the crank to improve the ground clearance. However, it is possible to lighten and polish the crank for a better vivacity and security.

The Carillo rods are not a necessity except if the original rods are out of service. In this case, it will be necessary to fit new needle bearings.

The crankcases:
They are often stiffened by welding near the engine fixing points and around the central crank bearings.
The oil case is often partitionned off to avoid the oil charge loss.

Lube system:
There is a very old debate beetwen those who use mineral monograde oil and those who use only 100% synthetic oils... Some pilots are very happy with the Castrol R40 as it works weel in the old engines and because synthetic oils avoid a good engine running-in and can made the clutch slipping.
Some others arguing that the synthetic oils are really a way to reduce the engine temperature and wear...
Each pilot has his own choice and some of them use other various solutions like, for instance, a dual lube system, Castrol R40 in the engine and multigrade in the clutch (a plate is then used to isolate the clutch from the engine oil), or synthetic oil in the engine and mineral multigrade in the clutch!...
The oil pump output must be improved, 2 ways for that: Fit a larger big capacity pump or modify the pump sprockets ratio.
If the engine is a 1200cc, fit a bigger oil cooler.
At least, dry lube system are more and more used.

The ignition:
The original Bosch ignition systems were already junk on road bikes, so in racing conditions... It is then necessary to get a serious and
reliable system. John Wilson (see the "improving" page of this site, IIS ignitions) has done a special racing ignition system, light and compact,
including different programmable advance curves.
The pilot can even order its own curves when he order the system. The ignition can be removed easily and quickly in case of problem (crash
or mechanical problem).
At least, this ignition can be delivered with a twin spark output in order to match with a twin spark cylinder head, which allow to improve the
power and to retard the initial advance of about 8°.
The spark plugs must be cold, NGK 9/10 EV or EGV or Bosch W3DPO (platinium projected electrode, same plugs as the Porsche 911Turbo).

The carbs:
A lot of solutions are used, from the very big 38 or 40 Dell'Orto to the 38 and even 41mm (!) in Japanese carbs (Keihin). However, the best results in race seem to be obtained with the 36mm Dell'Orto carbs.
Some pilots are even saying that the best results on various tracks are obtained with the 32mm Dell'Orto re-bored to 34mm, above all for the 1000cc engine.

Main jets around 175/180, pilot jets 65, 60/2 slides. Open bellmouths with 3 lenghts depending of the track, but some riders prefer big capacity home made air box, without filter, which calm the air input.

After a long use of 3 into 1 systems, it seems today that everyone wants to use 3-1-2 exhausts which allow a better power at top end.
Tube diameters are generarly 40mm, the collector is a large capacity system. The conical end shapes of the "silencers" have to be carefully
conceived to keep the homogeneity of the whole system.
Some new systems, including a sort of Exup, are experimented.

If allowed, an AvGas (aviation fuel) or a 105 leaded fuel is required.

Gearbox, secondary transmission:
No big changes to do. The main improvements to do are to chrome the selection drum and to reverse the gears selection (1rst gear up
and others down), the gearbox is easier in racing conditions. As for the transmission, fitting a narrower chain and sprockets(Zane style) is
a good improvement.

Primary transmission:
Remove the Triplex and replace it by 2 single chains, more solid and lighter, and remove the central teeth lines by turning them. The clutch
drum can be lightened too.


It is a special page done by Doug Home (Australia): -Click here-


It is a special page done by Doug Home (Australia): -Click here-

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